Emanuele Dell'Abate's List: tecniche

• Guida alla Conversione Da DVD a DivX/XviD
  specifica per serie di molti episodi (per Utenti Windows)
• DVD di serie televisive contenenti molti episodi
• * DVD Decrypter
  * AutoGK
• modalità IFO
• selezionare l’episodio
• DVDDecrypter
• tasto destro
• File Splitting ---> None
• flusso video più i flussi audio AC3 che si vogliono acquisire
• Enable Stream processing
• negli step successivi non ci sarà modo di identificare le tracce audio con il loro nome ma solo con il numero (0x80, 0x82) che le identifica all’interno del file .VOB
• il file relativo a ciascun episodio si chiamerà sempre VTS_01_1.VOB e non può essere rinominato prima del rip, per cui suggerisco caldamente di rippare ciascun episodio in una directorydiversa onde evitare confusione (es. serieX_ep1, serieX_ep2, ecc…)

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• Strumento di Rimozione costantemente aggiornato (rimuove oltre 50 tra i più diffusi worm/virus).
• nstalla ed usa CCleaner , un ottimo “pulitore” freeware, con modulo della lingua italiana.
• Eimina tutti i file temporanei Internet, scegli “Elimina tutto il contenuto anche non in linea
• Cancella la Cronologia
• Elimina i Cookies
• pzioni internet -> Impostazioni: imposta la cache dei Temporary Internet Files a 50/60 mb
• Opzioni internet -> Contenuto -> Completamento automatico: “Cancella moduli” + “Cancella password”.
• scansioni on-line
• nella cartella "Temp" di Windows
• Start -> Esegui -> digita “%temp%” (senza virgolette!) -> OK.
• Svuota il Cestino

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• to duplicate and keep in sync my whole family photos collection between two computers
• the facial recognition data was not held in the picasa.ini files, but in a .db file
• The location of this information is in: <root drive>/Users/<username>/AppData/Local/Google/Picasa2/db3
• I did a migration from Vista to 7 onto a new hard drive.  The procedure I used was as follows:
  
  1.  Install Picasa 3.5 on the new system/os
  2.  Pointed picasa at the location of the pictures using the Tools->Folder options
  3.  Shut down Picasa
  4.  Renamed the above location to .../db3.old in the CURRENT OS (in my case Windows 7) user tree
  5.  Copied the OLD .../db3 directory to the CURRENT .../Picasa2/ location
  6.  Launch Picasa
• the full backup/restore thing is the right way to do it.
• When you do the restore, restore to the "Same Location" (you'll be asked). 
  If you restore to a different location, album definitions will not survive.
  Name albums might (haven't tried that yet).
  But "blue book" albums won't survive.

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• remove the blue tint from the atmosphere seen most during over long distances at mid day.
• create a new level adjustment layer
• The black graph in the center with the three distinct spikes is called a “histogram”. If the graph is farther to the left, it means there are more dark pixels in the image. If the graph is farther to the right, it means there are more bright pixels. If the graph is very flat or spread out, it indicates the photograph has high dynamic range. If the graph is very narrow, as it is here, it indicates narrow dynamic range.
• Since we only want to remove the blue haze from the image, rather than the overall tone, we are going to work on the color channels, rather than the RGB or “composite” of the three channels. If we work on the RGB composite, we will be effecting brightness, rather than the balance of colors in the image. Press “CTRL + 1″ to edit the red channel alone, or press the “RGB” drop down menu at the top and select “Red”.
• Make the same adjustments to the green section as you did to the Red section.

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• Various man made and natural factors contribute to a photo having "haze", these include water vapor, smoke and pollution, etc. Digital cameras can also contribute to the problem by not capturing the full dynamic range.
• The first step is to improve the compressed dynamic range of the image.

• The trick involves using some kind of Unsharp Mask filter, which as defined by the Photoshop Elements help file is a technique for giving the illusion of greater detail in an image (sharpness) by increasing the contrast between the light and dark areas of the image. Photoshop, Photoshop Elements and Paint Shop Pro all have an Unsharp Mask built in.

• Amount determines how much to increase the contrast of pixels. We're working with subtle highlights here, so for most cases you won't want to boost this by more than 20-30%.

    

  Radius is used to identify how many pixels around edges to sharpen. For sharpening contrast in the localized fashion were working with here, a number between 40-70 seems to work well depending on the image, because you can really make edges stand out.

    

  Threshold determines how far pixels must be from surrounding area in order to be considered an edge. By leaving the threshold at 0 the entire image is sharpened. Increasing this number to anything greater than 0 seems to make the effect useless for what we're doing here.

• You can automate many routine tasks using simple text files that are recorded macro-style. Whether it's converting an image for the Web or making a color photo into a black and white image, you can reduce hundreds of Photoshop steps to the click of a single button.
• Actions are mini recordings of commands. These text files store a kind of shorthand that only Photoshop can read. Once it reads the commands, it applies them sequentially to any image.
• Open the Actions palette. (Hit the F9 function key, or go to Windows -> Show Actions.)
• Actions must be saved in "sets." A set can contain between one and 100 actions. I suggest that you put related actions together in sets. For example, put all of your sharpening actions in one set, and all your resize and rotate actions in another.

• • Action: This is the actual set of commands recorded in macro form. You have to select this to ensure the correct action is being applied to the image.

     
    
    

  Figure 1. This is the Photoshop Actions palette in Edit mode

     
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    On/Off command: This turns an action (or an effect nested inside of an action) on or off.

     
    
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    Dialogue icon: Requires user intervention. When the action is running, the user may click this to modify the highlighted command. If it is turned off, Photoshop will execute the defaults for that command.

     
    
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    Play button: Begins playing an action (or set of actions).

     
    
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    Record button: Starts recording (or resumes) recording (not in button mode).

     
    
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    Stop record: When finished running an action, hit this button (not in button mode).

     
    
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    New set: Creates a new set in which to place your actions (not in button mode).

     
    
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    New action: Creates a new action within the selected set (not in button mode).

     
    
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    Delete action: Deletes the selected action (or steps within the action). Simply drag and drop the action to this icon to delete it (not in button mode).

     
    
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    Resize palette: Self-explanatory.

     
    
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    Action menu icon: This opens the action menu and allows you to edit the action, insert new commands, delete commands, and save sets (not in button mode).
• Select button mode from the actions palette menu. Switch to edit mode by hitting button mode a second time. This toggles the palette between the two modes.

• Button mode: This mode allows users to run actions with the simple click of a button. It presents a less confusing set of options to some users. There are some disadvantages to using button mode. First, the user doesn't have the option to adjust the command settings. Though easier to understand and use, the flexibility to modify, stop, or otherwise alter the action is gone. Second, you can't display action sets in button mode. I recommend button mode for beginners only. Once you are accustomed to actions, you will want to work in edit mode.

    

   
• List/edit mode: This view of the actions palette is the more powerful and functional choice. As the name implies, you can edit actions and sets when viewing the palette in this mode. In fact, this is the only way to create, edit, or alter actions. When initially opening Photoshop, actions are displayed in list mode by default.

• Creating Actions

    

  You aren't limited to the actions that come with Photoshop. You can make your own. To do this, you will want to open any image and then open the actions palette.

    
   
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     Create a new action set or select an existing action set from the Actions menu. Remember, actions are always saved in sets.

      
    
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     From the actions palette, click the new action icon at the bottom of the palette, or choose "New action" from the Actions menu.

       

     This is the menu item you select to make a new action. The dialog box pops up and asks you to assign a function key, name the action, etc.

      
    
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     Next, name your action, assign it a function key,* assign a color for organization, and select the set in which to place the action. You may always change these later by going to the Actions palette menu, selecting Action Options, and typing a new name.

       

     The main thing to remember is that, once you hit Record, anything you do in Photoshop will be added to the action unless you manually stop recording. You can stop and resume at any time. *(Note: When assigning function keys, you have a choice of using F1-F12, or combinations of keys, including the Command and Shift keys. This increases the number of possible keyboard shortcuts to 60.)

      
    
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     Proceed with the commands that you want to record.

      
    
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     When you are finished, stop recording.

      
    
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     Test the action by running it. You should test the action on the image you have open and a second unrelated image to make sure it performs in a predictable manner.

      
    
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     Next, save the action. "Save action" will only appear if you select the set where the action was first placed.

      
   
    

  You've done it. By default, the action is saved to a folder in Photoshop. You may also save the action to a different folder. I prefer to save my actions in a separate folder. I call this ScottsActions. That way, I can always easily find the actions I created.
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• Looking through the “file” menu in Photoshop, they don’t see a “Save All…” command. What to do?
• The solution to this problem is quite simple. It’s actually saved under the “File” menu under “Automate”, then “Batch”. The “Batch” command will run a script, then close the open image. It is not for usage if you want to, say, sharpen every open image, because it will sharpen them and then exit without saving. The “Batch” command is best used when you are finished editing and you want to save and exit, possibly with another action at the same time like “resize” or “sharpen”.

• In order to save all the open images, we need to first create an “Action”, or an automated set of events. One of Photoshop’s best workflow management options is the “Action”, as they are simple to make and very powerful.

   

  If you don’t have the action window open, hit “ALT + F9″.

• Now hit “SHIFT + CTRL + S” to enter the “Save As…” dialog box. It doesn’t matter where you save the image, nor what you choose for the title, as long as you make sure you select “JPEG”. As long as there is a “Save As…” step in this action, it’s fine — we’re then going to tell the batch command to over ride the “Save As…” command, allowing you to save wherever you want from within the “Batch” dialog box. After this step, hit the “stop recording” button.

   
• Now, navigate to “File”, “Automate”, “Batch”. Select the Action you just created from the drop-down box, and make sure you select “Open Images” to tell the script that you want to work with the images you have open in Photoshop. Make sure to select “Override Action “Save As” Commands”.

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• how to build portable app from ziro
• how to create nice exe file, with nice icon
• how to create the structure folder and all ini files
• how to create a NSIS script with a common command

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