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n Praise of the All-American Mexican Hot Dog

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By JOHN T. EDGE
Published: August 25, 2009

Tucson
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Chris Hinkle for The New York Times

A Sonoran hot dog prepared by Oop's Hot Dogs in Tuscon.
UNITED TASTES

This series of articles explores American cuisine and its ongoing evolution.
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Chris Hinkle for The New York Times

THE SONORAN WAY Ruiz Hot-Dogs in Tucson is fine by Luis Galindo.
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Chris Hinkle for The New York Times

Oop's truck in Tucson.
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Chris Hinkle for The New York Times

The hot dogs are wrapped in bacon, grilled, then served with toppings like beans, guacamole and mayonnaise.
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Kraft Foods

Did Oscar Mayer start it all long ago?

“THE problem with American hot dogs is that they’re American,” said Tania Murillo, standing beneath a pink and blue bunny-shaped piñata, as she rang up an order of tortillas at Alejandro’s Tortilla Factory.

“A ketchup-and-mustard hot dog is boring,” continued Ms. Murillo, a high school senior. “They’re not colorful enough. You’ve got to make them colorful, and pile on the stuff. The best hot dogs come from Sonora,” the Mexican state immediately to the south. “Everybody knows that.”

In Tucson more than 100 vendors, known as hotdogueros, peddle Sonoran-style hot dogs — candy cane-wrapped in bacon, griddled until dog and bacon fuse, garnished with a kitchen sink of taco truck condiments and stuffed into split-top rolls that owe a debt to both Mexican bolillo loaves and grocery store hot dog buns.

Many, like Ruiz Hot-Dogs on Sixth Avenue, work step-side carts with two-item menus of Sonoran hot dogs and soft drinks. Set in dirt and gravel parking lots, beneath makeshift shelters, under mesquite tree arbor

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Filipino delights
(Suzanne Kreiter/Globe Staff)
By Adam Centamore
Globe Correspondent / August 19, 2009
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At an unremarkable intersection in Quincy is a remarkable restaurant. JnJ Turo Turo serves traditional Filipino food in a casual, almost cafeteria-style way. Owner-chef Jervin Erasquin’s catering business blossomed into an 18-seat eatery at the behest of friends, family, and clients. Now, both locals and expatriates enjoy delicious liempo, grilled pork belly seasoned with sweet BBQ sauce ($4.99); robust chicken afritada, chicken in a tomato sauce with potatoes, carrots, and bell peppers ($5.50); and authentic kare kare, beef and tripe cooked with vegetables in thick peanut sauce, served with shrimp paste ($6.50.) Wash it all down with a cool calamansi or two - that’s a classic drink in the islands ($1.50) - and take in a Filipino program on the TV. JnJ Turo Turo, 143 Water St., Quincy, 617-471-8876, www.jnjturoturo.com.

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Kid (and parent) friendly
(Joanne Rathe/Globe Staff)
By Kathleen Burge
Globe Correspondent / August 19, 2009
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There’s a reason many restaurants would rather see a pack of howler monkeys swing through their doors than a bevy of young children. Kids take up as much chair space as adults but they never order $14 pomegranate martinis. They annoy other diners, the people drinking those martinis, who may be slipping their baby sitter $15 an hour for the pleasure of a meal without sippy cups. Kids whine.
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VIA LAGO CAFE 1845 Massachusetts Ave., Lexington, 781-861-6174, www.vialagocatering.com. All major credit cards. Wheelchair accessible.

Prices Dinner appetizers $4-$10, entrees $9-22.

Hours Dinner Mon-Wed 5-9 p.m., Thurs-Sat 5-9:30 p.m. (Cafe open Mon-Wed 7 a.m.-9 p.m., Thurs-Sat 7 a.m.-9:30 p.m.)

Liquor Full bar.

May we suggest Pan-seared sea scallops, mozzarella and tomatoes three ways, shrimp risotto, gnocchi.

And yet, once parenthood descends, there’s nothing more gratifying than a non-chain restaurant that welcomes your offspring and serves interesting food. We parents are easy prey: Add a wine list and we’ll be there every week. What Full Moon has done for Cambridge, Via Lago Cafe is now doing for Lexington, minus the play area. Via Lago, by day a casual place that serves sandwiches and salads, transforms itself at night, dimming the lights, stocking the bar, and hauling out white tablecloths and candles. There’s a kids’ menu with the usual suspects - mac and cheese, chicken fingers, pasta - but the adult menu, which changes weekly, is creative and well-executed.

Pan-seared sea scallops in an appetize

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Thai, fit for the king
In search of authentic spices, flavors

By Ike DeLorenzo, Globe Correspondent | August 19, 2009

Ever since I first saw him some 15 years ago when I was living in San Francisco, I have been having a not-so-secret love affair with His Majesty “The Great’’ Bhumibol Adulyadej - or rather with his photograph. Dressed in an ornate and heavily decorated royal uniform, the venerated and venerable King of Thailand looks down from the walls of every true Thai restaurant. I’ve noticed that a large and prominent photo often means the food is going to be very good. You don’t cut corners when the king is watching.

At least that was the case in San Francisco. Here in Boston, I’ve had mixed results. Boston hosts a few spectacular Thai restaurants. But at the majority of Thai eateries here, there is an unnerving tendency to remove essential herbs, spices, and ingredients that the owners feel are too challenging for Boston diners. Even with the king looking on.

I asked my waiter at Amarin of Thailand, in Newton Corner, why they do this. He looks around to verify that the nearest diners cannot hear us. “This is Newton,’’ he says, sotto voce. “They cannot have strong tastes.’’ So it’s not Amarin’s fault the food is bland, it’s yours.

Ideally, Thai dishes are a riotous, sexy, spicy balance of tastes, aggressively complementing and enhancing one another. Take the chili and shrimp paste out of som tum and you have the dissatisfying network-broadcast version of a racy R-rated movie. Next time, tell your waiter you’re old enough for R. Certain restaurants will be thrilled to make it for you. If they can’t, you probably shouldn’t be eating there.

I set out to get an overview of what many consider the best Thai restaurants in the Boston area (there are 178 east of Worcester). I polled some trusted restaurant cognoscenti and, yes, some actual Thai sources as a sanity check. I visited each of the resulting top eight places and tried a variety of dishes - three Thai classics at every restaurant, and then some of

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For many of us, the extent of learning how healthy we’re eating amounts to glancing at the back of our food’s packaging, but FatSecret aims to provide a more complete picture.

The New York-based start-up recently launched a tool for food companies and restaurants to upload the nutritional information of their products, along with an interface for programmers to mash up that data. FatSecret’s Web site is currently a hub for diets, recipes and general nutritional information. These new additions will effectively allow FatSecret manipulate and port this system elsewhere, complete with official data from food brands.

As far as online dieting diaries go, FatSecret already has healthy competition from About.com’s Calorie Count Web site and LiveStrong.com’s Daily Plate tool. Lenny Moses, FatSecret’s chief operating officer, says his site will be able to get the best information by verifying nutritional values directly with brands, but I see little reason to question the data provided by the existing two sites. LiveStrong, for instance, has a verification process that involves “independent sources,” though the verification method for Calorie Count isn’t as clear. Both sites allow users to suggest foods, along with their nutritional value, to administrators.

I think the potential with FatSecret lies more with FatSecret’s programming interface, or API. At the very least, it points to a future where dietary information could be ubiquitous, if developers begin stuffing nutritional information into Web sites and mobile apps that deal with food.

As an example, Moses said a site like MarthaStewart.com could tap FatSecret’s database for the calorie or fat content of the site’s recipes, or a

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Penang
3.5 star rating
based on 175 reviews
Rating Details »

Category: Malaysian [Edit]
Neighborhood: Chinatown
685 Washington St
(between Beach St & Kneeland St)
Boston, MA 02111
(617) 451-6373
www.penangusa.com
Penang, Boston, MA
exterior of Penang

Penang, Boston, MA

asam laksa ~ awful disgusting sludge

Indian noodles
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* Nearest Transit:

Chinatown (Orange, Silver)

Boylston (Green, Silver)

Downtown Crossing (Orange, Silver, Red)
* Price Range: $$
* Accepts Credit Cards: Yes
* Parking: Street
* Attire: Casual
* Good for Groups: Yes
* Good for Kids: Yes
* Takes Reservations: Yes
* Delivery: No
* Take-out: Yes
* Waiter Service: Yes
* Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
* Outdoor Seating: No
* Good for: Dinner
* Alcohol: Beer & Wine Only

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175 reviews for Penang
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"Plus they have other yummy dishes like the Roti Canai." (in 49 reviews)
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Alex V.

Worcester, MA
5 star rating
8/2/2009

This is the best Malaysian restaurant i ever crashed into (well the only one). Ive been here since i was a baby and the food is delicious. The ambience is nice and gives you the Southeast Asian nightlife feeling.

Though the staff can be slow and the food is slow the food is worth its wait. Bubor Cha Cha has opened recently and some folks say that it cannot compete with Penang and i havent been there. The food in Penang is excellent ranging from my favorite soy sauced chicken to gigantic fried shrimp bursting with flavor to refreshing coconut sodas and fried ice cr

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Bubor Cha Cha Opens in Chinatown

photo of Bubor Cha Cha, Boston, MAA new Malaysian restaurant has opened in the Chinatown section of Boston. Bubor Cha Cha is located in a large space on Beach Street in the heart of the neighborhood, with an exotic exterior that includes all kinds of plants in front of the place. The spacious and brightly-lit interior has a mix of seating arrangements, including large tables that should be able to accommodate nearly any size group.

Bubor Cha Cha's menu features not only Malaysian entrees, but also Thai and Indonesian dishes. Appetizers include satay skewers, papaya salad, durian pancakes, and a seaweed/seafood soup. Entrees include clay pot noodle soup, seafood chow fun, Malaysian style fried rice, stir-fried sliced lamb, deep-fried prawn in cream sauce, coffee flavored short ribs, braised duck, strawberry flavored pork chops, mango tofu, Indonesian crab, and frog porridge. The restaurant also has a variety of drinks (including fruit smoothies) and desserts (including mango mousse cake).

The address for this new restaurant in Chinatown is: Bubor Cha Cha, 45 Beach Street, Boston, MA, 02111. The phone number is (617) 482-3338.

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Pull into the parking lot at the Skara Grill and you’ll notice that the asphalt is bordered by greenery: 70 tomato and cucumber plants that will soon be heavy with fresh salad essentials. It’s a good omen of what’s inside this new Greek restaurant.
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SKARA GRILL 1985 Centre St., West Roxbury, 617-327-1114, www.skaragrill.com. All major credit cards. Wheelchair accessible.

Prices Appetizers $3.95-$16.95; entrees $12.95-$22.95 (most under $18); sandwiches and gyros $6.95; desserts $3.95-$5.95.

Hours Mon-Sun 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Liquor Beer and wine.

May we suggest Greek spread plate, calamari, keftedes, youvetsi, pastitsio, kebabs, gyros, galaktobouriko.

George Kariotis moved to Boston with his family from Kalamata in 1969 and for years owned the Dionysius restaurant in Cambridge. The Kariotises live near this new restaurant, which he envisions as a neighborhood taverna serving authentic meals at affordable prices. Weekends, there’s a two-piece band playing Greek and American music.

Family recipes have been handed down for generations, Kariotis says. Son Bob is the manager, and wife Maria did all the paintings of Greece that adorn the walls. Skara seats 80, with 20 more seats on a cobblestoned patio. It’s an attractive place with sand walls, warm tiles, and a stamped tin roof.

Sip a Mythos beer while perusing the menu. It’s all there, from spanikopita to moussaka and baked lamb. The rotisserie for gyros turns lazily and emits a slight garlicky aroma. We start with the Greek spread plate ($12.95), four traditional dips accompanied by warm pita. My favorite has always been tzatziki, a thick yogurt studded with chopped cucumbers and flavored with garlic and olive oil. The other standout is the tirokafterie, or chunky, salty feta given a lift with hot pepper sauce. The dish is rounded out with a scoop of melitzanosalata (roasted eggplant and garlic) and

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Food scientists are hoping for big things from small particles
Disease, obesity are latest targets of nanotechnology

By Carolyn Y. Johnson, Globe Staff | July 27, 2009

More than a half-century ago, scientists helped eliminate rickets and goiter by fortifying food with Vitamin D and iodine. Now, scientists are altering the very structure of ingredients in laboratories, hoping to make things like milkshakes and mayonnaise into a new generation of healthier foods that fight cancer and obesity.

Nanotechnology, the buzzword used to describe science conducted at the molecular or atomic level, doesn’t usually come up when people discuss cooking. But interest is growing in manipulating matter at a scale one-1,000th the width of a human hair to make food healthier, tastier, and safer.

Such work is far from the supermarket shelf, but experiments are underway in labs around the world, with scientists searching for techniques that could help to deliver a delicate vitamin to a specific part of the digestive tract or create droplets of fat that aren’t bad for you.

“You make a food that looks and tastes like a regular food. Same fat content, same viscosity, same mouth-feel, but you wrap all the fat in a dietary fiber coating so it goes out the other end - without being digested,’’ said David Julian McClements, a food scientist at the University of Massachusetts at Amherst, describing one potential project.

Currently, McClements is trying to devise a way to make a potentially beneficial ingredient more palat able and effective in reaching specific parts of the body. For example, butyric acid, a natural ingredient found in milk, is interesting because of its potential anticancer properties on the colon. But two big problems exist: It is normally absorbed before it reaches the colon, and it smells like baby throw-up, he said.

So McClements, supported by grants from the US Department of Agriculture and UMass, is working to encapsulate the acid in a fiber coating that will allow it to travel intact to the large intestine -

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Taking chance proves fruitful for brewer
Unexpected success of Blueberry Ale fuels expansion at Wachusett
Boston.com article page player in wide format.
By Jenn Abelson
Globe Staff / July 26, 2009
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WESTMINSTER - Nearly a decade ago, Ned LaFortune began brewing a beer with blueberry concentrate from California and a heavy dose of skepticism. Fruity beers had made their way into Massachusetts without much success in the late 1990s, and LaFortune, one of the founders of Wachusett Brewing Co., was a bit of a purist when it came to his craft libations.
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But the blueberry beer turned out better than anyone expected, and it became an instant hit around western Massachusetts. Over the last five years, sales of the refreshing wheat ale have more than doubled to an estimated 263,000 gallons as it has won over local taste buds with berry goodness. These days, LaFortune said, it is decisively the most coveted beer at the Westminster brewery - now the second-largest beermaker and bottler in Massachusetts - and has made its way into new markets like Rhode Island, New York, and New Jersey.

After a massive expansion over the past year to increase the speed and capacity of production at their plant, the owners of Wachusett Brewing are hoping to bring their fruity beverage as far as Florida as the business celebrates its 15th anniversary and approaches $5 million in annual sales.

“We are beer lovers. We love the taste of water, malted barley, hops, specialty grains like wheat, and yeast mixed. We didn’t want anything to take away from the things we loved to brew with,’’ LaFortune shouted over the din of conveyor belts and bottling mach

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food

A memoir of noodles, neuroses

By Steve Almond, Globe Correspondent | July 25, 2009

I’ll say this for “The Ramen King and I’’: I’ve never read anything remotely like it. Andy Raskin’s memoir manages to weave together such disparate strands as romantic betrayal, Japanese cuisine, the dot.com boom, and an exhaustive personal history of Momofuku Ando, inventor of the instant noodles popularly referred to as ramen noodles. In its finest moments, the book is peculiar and riveting.

Raskin, who has a degree in computer science from Yale and a master’s in Japan studies, would seem an unlikely memoirist. But he does possess a crucial ingredient: ample neuroses. “I should not want attention or validation. I should give things another shot. I should be more organized,’’ he writes, in his self-lacerating introduction. “I should be friendlier with the guys who run the body shop. I should keep things under wraps. I should not be suffering from what the inventor of instant ramen identified - just prior to inventing instant ramen - as the Fundamental Misunderstanding of Humanity.’’

But Raskin’s real problem, as he sees it, is one of intimacy. He keeps pushing women away, or throwing them over, and eventually winds up in a 12-step-type program where his sponsor instructs him to write letters to a figure he admires. Raskin chooses Ando. He spends the rest of the book trying to orchestrate a personal audience with the entrepreneur. We can all breathe a sigh of relief that Raskin - who also has an MBA from Wharton - didn’t choose Jack Welch.

It turns out Ando is a genuine eccentric with a penchant for philosophizing and a tangled romantic history. He claims to have concentrated so hard when he was perfecting his recipe for ramen that he wound up urinating blood. (One shudders to imagine the result if he’d made a go at freeze-dried shrimp.)

In fact, the most entertaining sections of the book are those that deal with food. Raskin is an enraptured eater who will do practically anything in pursuit of the right meal. At one point,

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101 Simple Salads for the Season
Francesco Tonelli for The New York Times

FRESH AND FRESHER Clockwise, from top left: tuna, egg, green beans (No. 56); carrots, blueberries, sunflower seeds (7); croutons, tomatoes, mozzarella (42); walnuts, blue cheese, raspberries (49); couscous, oranges, honey (95); strawberries, tomatoes, Parmesan (13).

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By MARK BITTMAN
Published: July 21, 2009

SUMMER may not be the best time to cook, but it’s certainly among the best times to eat. Toss watermelon and peaches with some ingredients you have lying around already, and you can produce a salad that’s delicious, unusual, fast and perfectly seasonal.
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Francesco Tonelli for The New York Times

Salmon, watercress, red onion (55).

That’s the idea behind the 101 ideas found in this section. In theory, each salad takes 20 minutes or less. Honestly, some may take you a little longer. But most minimize work at the stove and capitalize on the season, when tomatoes, eggplant, herbs, fruit, greens and more are plentiful and excellent.

This last point is important. Not everything needs to be farmers’ market quality, but it’s not too much to expect ripe fruit, fragrant herbs and juicy greens.

Salt, to taste, is a given in all of these recipes. Pepper, too (if I want you to use a lot of pepper, I say so).

Herein, then, are enough salad ideas to tide you over unt

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his custard shares billing with ice cream
(Jonathan Wiggs/Globe Staff)
By Jean Kressy
Globe Correspondent / July 22, 2009
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Introducing people who savor ice cream to frozen custard was a gamble for Brian LaClair, owner of The Chilly Cow in Arlington. So he introduced the custard along with ice cream four years ago. Soon customers were buying about as much custard as they were the more traditional fare. “Frozen custard is premium ice cream,’’ says LaClair. Made with more egg and less air than ice cream, it’s also denser, smoother, and creamier. Flavors include vanilla, chocolate, coconut, mocha-almond chip, and a delicious lemon (cone or cup $2.35 to $4.50; prepacked pints $4, two for $6; handpacked pints $5). It’s a treat-and-a-half. The Chilly Cow, 451 Massachusetts Ave., Arlington, 781-648-4360, www.thechillycow.com. Pints available at Harvest Co-op, 581 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, 617-661-1580, and 57 South St., Jamaica Plain, 617-524-1667.

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A fruitful alternative
(Yoon S. Byun/Globe Staff)
By Debra Samuels
Globe Correspondent / July 22, 2009
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Not every sundae has hot fudge and a cherry on the top. Bingsoo ($7.35), an icy Korean dessert that’s a unique sundae-like concoction, combines unexpectedly compatible ingredients and textures. At Between Hours, an Internet cafe, bingsoo is served in a footed glass bowl filled with crushed ice drizzled with condensed milk, adzuki bean jam, and a crown of vanilla ice cream. Surrounding this is a combination of fruit and a jumble of tapioca pearls (think bubble tea). There are a variety of flavors such as green tea and coffee. One serving is big enough for two. It’s a cool way to beat the heat. Between Hours, 154 Harvard Ave., Allston, 617-782-1811, betweenhours.com.

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Cheap eats
The Boston Globe
An Armenian surprise
(Wendy Maeda/Globe Staff)
By Kathleen Burge
Globe Correspondent / July 22, 2009
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The name won’t give you a clue to what lies inside, nor will its perch in a tiny but crowded Lexington shopping center. The early breakfast hours, where the menu includes hash, might also lead you astray. If Aunt Mary’s World Cafe looks like just another deli packed into a suburban plaza, wander inside and check out the glass display case packed with Armenian salads and dips.
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AUNT MARY’S WORLD CAFE 321 Woburn St., Lexington, 781-652-0468, www.auntmarys worldcafe.com. All major credit cards accepted. Wheelchair accessible.

Prices Menu $3.69-$7.99, deli $4.99-$11.99 per pound

Hours Mon-Sat 7 a.m.-3:30 p.m.

Liquor None

May we suggest muhamarra, eech, falafel, lentil salad

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Toscanini's
Toscanini's in Central Square – with its blond wood, retro couches, and crowds of students and professors – is a neighborhood meeting place with a global feel. How Cambridge. You can also tell walking in that the ice cream is a serious, technical business.
WHAT TO GET: Try one of the chocolates: Chocolate Spanish Chili, Salted Chocolate, Belgian Chocolate, Cocoa Pudding, Black Bottom Pie . . . yes, there are more.
WHEN TO GO: The shop is open from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. every day, year-round, and there's no wait at all mid-afternoon on weekdays. There are colossal lines (at least two hours) every July Fourth, but go any other day.
899 Main Street, Cambridge, 617-491-5877; www.tosci.com
Toscanini's
Photo by Pam Berry

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