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28 May 08

bindweed - Weeds Forum - GardenWeb

  • I had trouble with bindweed for years, the whole garden was infested with it and nothing would stop it. I pulled it out the first year, but a week later the stuff had grown several foot of new plant. I tried weed killer the next year which slowed it down somewhat, but only for a matter of two weeks rather than one... Gardening is close to impossible when it gets this well established, the massive root system of the plant goes about 15 foot deep and can throw out endless meters of plant growth all summer. I've seen it scale to the top of a 5 foot fence in just three days. Of all the weeds I've had in my garden, this one is the weed from Hell.
  • Well, I tried just about everything and looked in to how professional gardeners, farmers and various other industries dealt with the stuff. Disappointingly they accepted in most cases that it could never be fully eradicated. Not the news I wanted so I set out to find my own solution. The main problem with bindweed is the massive deep root network, so if you kill that the result should be good. Glyphosate weed killers (like roundup) are taken in to the roots of weeds and kill them, so I tried them first and discovered that they didn't have lasting effects on such a large plant. The quantity absorbed by the foliage isn't enough to kill the main root system, it's just too big, and increasing the concentration of glyphosate would cause the foliage to die faster and quickly cut off the absorption. What you need is slow poisoning, that way the plant and it's vast roots will absorb as much glyphosate as possible before it becomes terminal.
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Putting the carbon backBlack is the new green : Article : Nature

  • The main stimulus for this interest was the work of Wim Sombroek, who died in 2003 and is still mourned in the field. Sombroek was born in the Netherlands in 1934 and lived through the Dutch famine of 1944 — the Hongerwinter. His family kept body and soul together with the help of a small plot of land made rich and dark by generations of laborious fertilization. Sombroek's father improved the land in part by strewing it with the ash and cinders from their home. When, in the 50s, Sombroek came across terra preta in the Amazon, it reminded him of that life-giving 'plaggen' soil, and he more or less fell in love. His 1966 book Amazon Soils began the scientific study of terra preta.

    Since then trial after trial with crop after crop has shown how remarkably fertile the terra preta is. Bruno Glaser, of the University of Bayreuth, Germany, a sometime collaborator of Sombroek's, estimates that productivity of crops in terra preta is twice that of crops grown in nearby soils2. But it is easier to measure the effect than explain it through detailed analysis.

    Everyone agrees that the explanation lies in large part with the char (or biochar) that gives the soil its darkness. This char is made when organic matter smoulders in an oxygen-poor environment, rather than burns. The particles of char produced this way are somehow able to gather up nutrients and water that might otherwise be washed down below the reach of roots. They become homes for populations of microorganisms that turn the soil into that spongy, fragrant, dark material that gardeners everywhere love to plunge their hands into. The char is not the only good stuff in terra preta — additions such as excrement and bone probably play a role too — but it is the most important factor.

  • Leaving aside the subtleties of how char particles improve fertility, the sheer amount of carbon they can stash away is phenomenal. In 1992, Sombroek published his first work on the potential of terra preta as a tool for carbon sequestration3. According to Glaser's research, a hectare of metre-deep terra preta can contain 250 tonnes of carbon, as opposed to 100 tonnes in unimproved soils from similar parent material. The extra carbon is not just in the char — it's also in the organic carbon and enhanced bacterial biomass that the char sustains.
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12 Mar 08

Native Plant associations

  • use this to plan which plants to plant near each other. Listed by various growth requirements. - jkling on 2006-10-16
07 Mar 08

UBC Botanical Garden Blog: Top 10 Fruits and Veggies at UBC




  • Bean ‘Painted Lady’
    abundant beans and attractive flowers
     




    Broccoli ‘Gypsy’
    reliable, many smaller side shoots into the winter after the main heads are harvested
     




    Cauliflower ‘Cheddar’
    lovely orange colours





  • Lettuce ‘Mesclun, Cooks Mild Mix’
    big fan of leaf lettuce salad blends that can be harvested young, cut and cut again as they keep on growing

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29 Feb 08

Fritillaria lanceolata, RICE LILY, RICE BABIES: NATIVE BULBS - FRIT L BABIES 10 - BUGGYCRAZY, BULBS AND NATIVE PLANTS

  • This bulb naturally occurs in grass meadows where it's unusual beauty is hidden, it thrives in sun or part shade and needs NO summer water, although it doesn't mind getting watered. It goes dormant in summer and produces many offsets (rice) from the mother bulb.

NPIN: Suppliers - Northwest Native Nursery

  • Northwest Native Nursery








    Services
    Nursery

    Seed Company

    Landscape Professional

    Environmental Consultant

    Address:
    21625 Entsminger Rd
    Arlington, WA 98223
    Region: Northwest

    Phone: 360-435-2479

     














    Email: jkevans@ncplus.net
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