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29 Nov 07
Brodiaea elegans, ELEGANT BRODIAEA, 6 BULBS: NATIVE BULBS - B ELEGANS 6-0.5 - BUGGYCRAZY, BULBS AND NATIVE PLANTS
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These are very easy if they are not watered in the summer or if planted with other plants and kept on the dry side. Great for rock gardens and other dry sites, taller in part shade. Seldom need to be divided, great for naturalizing with other bulbs in a sunny site.
Trillium ovatum, WESTERN TRILLIUM, 3 SMALL BULBS: NATIVE BULBS - T OVATUM 3 S - BUGGYCRAZY, BULBS AND NATIVE PLANTS
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They will be taller in heavy shade. This is one of the few plants that thrives under Big-Leaf Maples and is well adapted to growing under shrubs and trees.
Aquilegia formosa, WESTERN COLUMBINE, SMALL: NATIVE PLANTS - Aquilegia formosa SMBR - BUGGYCRAZY, BULBS AND NATIVE PLANTS
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The Columbine (Aquilegia) is an easy plant to grow because it adapts itself to a wide variety of conditions. Columbines do best however, when they are grown in moist, rich, well drained soil in light shade
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Columbines are a favorite flower for hummingbirds, and are excellent additions to the rock garden, or as a native woodland planting.
27 Sep 07
Serviceberry
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Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) is a small
deciduous tree or shrub with
attractive white spring blossoms, that provides year-round interest in the
landscape, as well as producing edible fruits. Also called shadblow, shadbush,
juneberry and saskatoon in different areas of the country, -
Most
Amelanchier species have showy but short-lived flowers. The flowers only last for about a week,
or less if it is warm or
windy. The flowers are followed by ¼ to ½-inch purple fruits with a waxy bloom
that taste somewhat like blueberries when ripe. The fruits are ready for harvest
2 to 3 months after bloom. The tiny edible fruit are
popular with birds, including American
goldfinch, tufted titmice, brown thrashers, blue jays, Carolina chickadees,
northern cardinals and American robins. - 5 more annotations...
24 Feb 07
Hardening off Transplants
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- Harden off gradually, so that seedlings become accustomed
to strong sunlight, cool nights and less-frequent watering over
a 7-10 day period. - On a mild day, start with 2-3 hours of sun in a sheltered
location. - Protect seedlings from strong sun, wind, hard rain and cool
temperatures. - Use an automatically opening cold frame, if you have one.
- Increase exposure to sunlight a few additional hours at a
time and gradually reduce frequency of watering, but do not allow
seedlings to wilt. Avoid fertilizing. - Keep an eye on the weather and listen to the low temperature
prediction. If temperatures below the crop's minimum are forecast,
bring the plants indoors or close the cold frame and cover it
with a blanket or other insulation. - Know the relative hardiness of various crops. Onions and brassicas
are hardy and can take temperatures in the 40's. After they are
well hardened off, light frosts won't hurt them. Warm-season crops
such as eggplants, melons and cukes prefer warm nights, at least
60° F. They can't stand below-freezing temperatures, even after hardening
off. (See chart below for more detail.) - Gradually increase exposure to cold.
- Root-prune plants in flats a week before setting out. Use
a sharp knife and cut down to the bottom of the flat between the
plants. Water thoroughly. - After transplanting to the garden, use a weak fertilizer solution
to get transplants growing again and to help avoid transplant
shock.
- Harden off gradually, so that seedlings become accustomed
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Recommended Minimum Temperatures Hardy 40° F. Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, cabbage, onions, leeks, parsley Half-Hardy 45° F. Celery, Chinese cabbage, lettuce, endive Tender 50° F. Squash, pumpkin, sweet corn 60° F. Cucumber, muskmelon 65° F. Basil, tomatoes, peppers - 1 more annotations...
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