Martha Royer's Public Library

22 Jul 09

Misconceptions of Dominance Theory
Does the dog want to be fed. Great -- ask
him to sit first. Does the dog want to go outside? Sit first. Dog
want to greet people? Sit first. Want to play a game? Sit first. Or
whatever. If you are proactive enough to control the things your dogs
want, *you* are alpha by definition.
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- co-founder
  of the Livestock Guarding Dog Project,
- Dr.
  Ray Coppinger
- Dogs : A Startling New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior, and
  Evolution;

DogLogic Crate Training Page

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dogs mel training DOG TRAINING dog problems

must be shown the proper place to eliminate, and when.
Giving the pup special "treats" is a great way to introduce
him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these
special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats
become associated with the crate.
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- set
  your alarm for about 3 hrs after your normal bed time.
  When the alarm goes off, get up immediately, go to the
  crate and CARRY the pup outside (I do this in my robe,
  with my shoes kept by the door to the outside). Place
  him on the ground and encourage him to eliminate. PRAISE
  when he does, and bring him back to the crate. Go back
  to bed.
- When you arise in the morning, TAKE the pup outside
  BEFORE you do anything else. Feed the pup and then crate.
  Follow your regular waking routine, then walk the pup
  one more time before going off to work.
- Repeat
  the feeding, walking and crating at lunch time. Pups from
  the ages of 2 to 4 months CANNOT control their elimination
  for much more than 4 hours, so if you cannot return home
  at lunch time, arrange for someone to do this for you
  at lunch.
- The box should be large enough
  that there is only room for the puppy to stand and lie
  down comfortably.
- Whenever
  you remove the puppy from the crate or just want the puppy
  to "go potty," take the dog to the door that will always
  be used to "go outside." Use the SAME door throughout
  the training period.
- On the
  handle of this door, tie a bell to a string, dropping
  it even with the height of the puppy's nose. When
  you bring the puppy to the door, lure the puppy to touch
  the bell with either it's nose or paw, (using a treat)
  causing the bell to ring.
  
  After the
  puppy rings the bell, give it the treat, (use a SMALL
  piece of meat or dried liver) and say "OUTSIDE" in a happy
  tone of voice. Take the puppy outside on leash.
- Reminder:
  During housebreaking DO NOT allow the pup outside to eliminate
  alone or loose in the yard. Yes, that means in the rain,
  snow, whatever: YOU GO OUTSIDE ALSO. Give the puppy plenty
  of time. Don't rush or you will be sorry. When the
  puppy urinates or defecates, praise the puppy with "Good
  Outside" and again, give the puppy a tiny, tiny treat.
- Continue
  to wait. When the puppy poops, again praise the puppy
  with "Good Outside" and give a treat. Go back inside,
  stop at the door again, and treat once again. If the puppy
  does not "potty" even after staying outside 15 minutes,
  return back inside, place the puppy back into the crate,
  wait 15 minutes and start again from the beginning.
- this training process should take only about
  2 weeks for the puppy to understand. This method will
  work with any dog, regardless of age. If you adopt a dog
  from a shelter or a rescue program, follow the same routine.
  Remember, even though the dog is older or even an adult,
  he still does not know the rules of your home, and may
  not have ever BEEN in a house. Be PATIENT and this method
  WILL work.
  
  Take it
  slow and easy...be PATIENT....and have FUN with your dog!
  
  here are
  some nice portable, lightweight crates to consider...Eezi-Crates

9. Go To Mat free training book online

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dogs mel training CLICKER TRAINING DOG TRAINING DOG PROBLEMS

GO TO MAT
- better than "down, stay" because they are more secure with something to 'mark' the spot they're supposed to stay at/on. - on 2009-07-22
Add Sticky Note
2 cues only
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- go over THERE
- control herself over THERE with you over
  HERE)
- she has to lie down when she gets to the ma
- it's one of the first behaviours I taught her and
  it's easy for both of us
- dogs are more secure with something to mark the spot
  than without, but there it is.
- Feel free to use
  it personally
- Get your treats,
  clicker, and mat
- waiting
  for the behaviour to happen so you can catch it. Click and toss
  the treat on the mat X10,
- Click when the dog returns
  to the mat, and the next ten treats on the mat.
- two parts to this behaviour: a) BE on the mat, and b)
  GET on the mat.
- gives her a chance to get back ON the ma
- get the mat far enough away from you that she's not
  going to hit it naturally
- If she can't
  find it, sit with a totally quiet body and LOOK at the mat. When
  she turns her head toward it, or moves her body closer to it,
  click and toss the treat on the mat (the art of training is in
  how you set things up and how you combine waiting, shaping, and
  luring into an explanation that the dog can understand)
- move the mat further and
  further away from you.
- every time you move the mat, go back to clicking X10 and tossing
  the treat on the mat
- If she sees the
  mat, she should be heading for it.
- She needs to be ON the mat, not just
  TOUCHING it
- the number of paws on it. I
- SHE JUST STARES AT ME AND DOESN'T LOOK FOR
  THE MAT! Just back up, you moved the mat too fast
- Don't say
  a word until the dog is offering you the behaviour. When she's
  running to the mat, over and over again, practically screaming
  "Look, I'm running to the mat! Look, my paws are on the mat!
  Aren't you going to click?!", It's time to tell her what
  the behaviour is called. I call it "Hit the rack".
- you might
  as well start clicking any indication of sitting or lying down
  on the mat.
- her BEST job is picking up her leash
- a couple of leashes snapped together to make a fairly
  large puddle of leashes, then cut it back to one 4' leash. Or
  you could use your purse. Your mitts. Your car keys. A chair.
  A couch. A bench in a park.
- remains Down without fussing with
  no additional cues for one minute.
- as long as she stays
  on the mat.
- you're working on Down from a distance – this fits in
  nicely with both of those. You can simply ask her to Down when
  she's on the mat.
- When
  she has a clear understanding that she goes to the mat and lies
  down on it, you can start your duration counts
- As usual, when she gsits up or gets off the mat
  at, say, 12 seconds, get her back on the mat and start your
  count over again from one second/click, two seconds/click, etc.
- SHE'LL STAY FOR 30 SECONDS ON THE MAT BUT SHE WON'T STAY ANYWHERE
  ELSE! Of course not. You haven't yet trained her anywhere
  else. Stay on a mat may look exactly like stay in the front
  hall to US, but they don't look anything like the same thing
  to a dog. By the time you've started from scratch and explained
  Stay to her in thirty different places, she'll be starting to
  understand. Even putting the mat in the front hall won't seem
  the same to her as having the mat in the living room.
- Move the mat
  around your house. Use different mats. Use mats, and low tables,
  hammocks, clothing. And remember, each time you change ONE thing
  about what the dog knows, change everything else to make it
  easier, so if you use a different mat, be sure to keep it in
  a place she knows, and lower the distance and time. If you change
  the place you put the mat, use the same mat, and lower the distance
  and time
- remains Down with no fussing for 2 minutes.
- It makes no difference whether
  you increase distance first, or time. The choice is yours.
- move your mat around so the dog has to look for it
  a bit to find it. When she's really good at finding it, no matter
  where in the room you put it, put the cue back on. Do it a LOT.
- Cut back to short distances
  and short durations and fold some clothes. Rinse a couple of dishes.
  Sweep the floor.
- also the beginning of the out-of-sight stays in obedience.
- from 20’ away and remains
  down for 5 minutes.
- stays
  there for 15 minutes.
- from 20’ away on one cue
- no fuss for 30 minutes.
- doing the behaviour as a part of her everyday life

How to Create a Bonus Area With a Room Divider | eHow.com

How to Create a Bonus Area With a Room Divider. There is always the need for more space in a home! Many times, my clients with large living rooms or family rooms have a corner or side of the room that is just not used. You may have this same situat...

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home & living decorating home how to

cut out a small room as your bonus area. You can use it as an office, a sewing room or an arts and crafts area for the kids--
can create a custom divider out of a variety of materials,
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- Add touches like lighting, pictures and artwork to create a warm, inviting space within the space
- Bookshelves could also be used as room dividers by turning the shelving to the inside or outside of the room and then covering the backs with padding and fabric or a large piece of framed art.
- an exercise area. I
- desk with a hutch as my room divider