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14 Mar 07

Thread: Painting the figures... | BoardGameGeek

  • For tips on painting try Brushthralls and Dr. Faust's Painting Clinic. They're two great sites to pick up pointers.
    • Too true!  These are the two most valuable sites to the newbie painter that I've found!
       - on 2007-02-14
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  • Important -quick and magic touch of black wash. Dilute black paint until it is almost gray water. Wash the figure with a wet brush. Let it flow in between details and fill thin lines. If it is too much just wipe carefully with a wet tissue. Your biggest wow factor in paintjob.
  • 2 more annotations...

Basics of White Primer :: Brushthralls.com

  • The basics of using white primer.  I've done a fair amount of research on the brands, and the two he recommends are the two you should consider.  I think more people like the Duplicolor more.
     - adamskinner on 2007-02-12

Additives, Glazes, and Smoke :: Brushthralls.com

  • Flow release lowers the viscosity of paint. This helps you achieve smoother coats. It also improves capillary action—the process whereby paint is drawn into the cracks and crevices of the model. Extender lowers the opacity of paint. It's essentially like adding more binder to the mix. More binder means less pigment by volume, and therefore more transparency. Retarder slows the drying time of paint.
  • Thinner is a flow release. Glaze Medium is primarily an extender, but has some qualities of flow release as well. Matte Medium and Gloss Medium are extenders that affect the sheen of the paint. Slow Dry is, as you might imagine, a retarder.

Applying a Wash to Miniatures

  • It is
    important to consider how the figure is positioned when doing
    a wash. Gravity will tend to pull the wash to the lowest point,
    so you would not want to, for example, stand a figure upright
    and then wash his cloak unless you want much darker wash near
    the bottom where it will flow to. Let the figure set in this
    position until the wash is dry enough not to flow. You can
    then go on to another section of the figure. You cannot wash
    an entire figure at once due to the way that the wash will
    flow, but will have to do it in sections, even if all that
    you are washing is the same color.
  • When you get a dark color that
    you are happy with, add some water to the paint by dipping
    your brush into your rinse container and mixing it with the
    color. The consistency that you are after is about like milk.
    It should flow well and be fairly watery.
  • 1 more annotations...
11 Feb 07

HomeTips DIY: Preparing Interior Walls for Painting

  • Sanding

    One reason to sand a surface is to smooth it. You should sand newly patched areas, bare wood, and areas that have been scraped before beginning to paint. Use fine-grade sandpaper.
  • Cleaning

    After vacuuming the room, use a tack cloth to dust all the surfaces that will be painted. Then wash walls that have a grease film (kitchens) or a soap film (bathrooms) with TSP or a phosphate-free substitute.
  • 3 more annotations...
10 Feb 07

Michael Casavant's Web Pages

  • First and foremost, let's protect it. If you read the labels
    on a can or ask a few painters you will find out that gloss coats
    are the protective variety. They make a nice hard smooth shiny
    shell. Two or three thin coats is a common choice, I use three,
    letting the mini dry for at least 30 minutes between coats. I
    use Krylon Crystal Clear and it seems to be a very popular choice.
    I have also used Testors Gloss Cote. Read the guidelines
    for spray painting, the
    same applies to spraying sealers.

[TMP] "Painting Zvezda plastic samurai" Topic

  • Third, buy PLASTIC PRIMER from Krylon. I have tested it on my figures and even when I bend them heavily, I get no paint flaking when I primer with this. THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE. This stuff works and bonds incredibly well.

Best Primer for Minis? - Page 4 - RPGnet Forums

  • Recently I have taken to using Duplicolor's Gray autobody primer. I'd use black if I could find it, but none of the auto parts stores around here carry it for some reason. Anyway, the gray stuff is a delight. Best finish I have ever found and paint sticks to it like mad. In fact, at a recent con, I was shifting tables with my figs in hand instead of in their case and I dropped Nemo 4' to the linoleum floor. He landed on his electro-staff and clattered several feet away. MUCH gnashing of teeth as I set my stuff down to survey the damage...



    None. Not a single chip. All hail Duplicolor.

Best Primer for Minis? - Page 3 - RPGnet Forums

  • Re: Best Primer for Minis?


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    Testors Flat White.



    Or Black, which I prefer, or Red, or Gray, or a Model Master's military color....



    It's all good. Beautiful coverage, never any problems with graininess or poweder, and goes on nice and smooth.



    No, it's not sold as primer. But honestly, it doesn't matter.
  • I've used Tamiya white primer for the past 2-3 years and I'll never use anything else. I've never had the dusty chalky effect with it like I have with others. Tamiya seems to be the idiot proof primer cause I am an idiot and haven't managed to scrwe up the priming with it yet.
  • 1 more annotations...

Getting Started Painting Miniatures

  • Once
    you have decided on a color scheme, you can begin to paint
    the base coat. If you are going to do any washings later,
    you will want to pick a color that is slightly lighter than
    the color that you want to end up with. This is because the
    wash will tend to darken the base color before you are done.
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