Qrystal MqKenzie's Profile

allergies

balance problems

brain fog, confusion, and/or memory loss

colds, recurring and with

decreased resistance to infection

dandruff problems [chronic]

that don't go away despite use

of anti-dandruff shampoos

depression/anxiety/dementia

diarrhea

fatigue [chronic, excessive, or continued]

and/or general malaise

feeling lost or "disconnected" from what's

happening around you

headaches

hypersensitivity to mold

irritability

learning difficulties or mental functioning

problems or personality changes

memory loss or memory

difficulties/Alzheimers-like symptoms

sinus congestion, sinus problems,

and chronic sinusitis

sleep disorders

sneezing fits (more than three

sneezes in a row, happening often)

sore throat

swollen lymph nodes

vertigo [feelings of dizziness, lightheadedness,

faintness, and unsteadiness]

5303281153

It (the dryer) is serviced from the front.

To raise the top of the dryer, insert a putty knife into the crack between the top and the front panel and push against the spring clips to release them. There are two clips, anywhere from 23 to 8 inches in from the sides. You should be able to feel the spring tension when you push on them. Push one in slightly, and raise that side, then the same for the other end of the main top. Once the top is up, you will disconnect the wires to the door switch (right side, on the backside of the front panel), if there are 3, mark them somehow to get them back correctly, if only 2 wires, no need as location makes no difference. Then remove the phillips screw holding the yellow tab-looking plastic thing front and center in the top of the front panel. Then remove the 2 screws holding the front panel to the side panels, screw heads are inside the cabinet, screws pointing towards you. Pull the front panel away and lift off the bottom clips to remove. Now remove the belt from the idler pulley. The idler is located right behind the blower/motor unit. Make sure to note how the belt goes around the idler so you get it back on right. Once the belt is free, slide the belt to the back edge of the drum and, using it as a handle (on the top side of the drum), lift straight up to disengage the rear bearing from the cradle. This can be a very tight fit, especially if it worn badly. You may have to pull relatively hard. Once done, the drum will pull out through the front of the cabinet. Now you can see the drum support ball on the back of the drum and the cradle that holds it. Simply keep note of how you remove the cradle from the back wall to reassemble it correctly (this is where 4 hands are better than 2 and don't loose track of the ground bearing from the back). Using a small drop of supplied grease to keep the bearing in the plastic cradle makes reassembly much easier. As far as the post on the back of the drum is concerned, if the new and old parts look ABSOLUTELY identical, leave it alone and just clean it up good. If you must change it (another place where 4 hands are better than 2), be very careful with the new screws, because they are cheap and the heads strip almost instantly. Put a generous portion of supplied grease into the cradle and reassemble the dryer.

If you had to change the rear support on the back of the drum, you might want to look that over once more to make sure it's together right and tight. The rear of the drum runs very close to the heater and its ceramic insulators and I would hate to see you short out your heating element because you overlooked something. It could also be the belt tracking wrong in the idler pulley.

use #10 x 1/2" Hex Heads instead of the crappy, easily stripped screws that are included with the repair kit

I went to a Sears with a Parts area with my model # and the parts # he suggested. Paid $28.00 for the kit, went home followed his directions and replaced all the pieces in a little over an hour by myself

in my dryer there was no reason to disconnect the door switch. I wasn't going to work on the dryer with power applied, so there was no danger of accidental turn-on, and the wires only go to the front panel. I don't think there was any reason to remove the funny yellow thing either. To pop the drum out of the old bearing I used my hands leveraged against the back panel, rather than pulling on the belt.

the idler pulley in attached to a spring loaded "L" bracket that rotates, slackening the belt for removal and reattachment. I should have known this before proceeding but did not.

- the idler pulley is spring loaded. when you remove the spring be prepared for the parts around it to fall out/down. if you have a rear fan panel on the back side, it may be easier for you to access the idler this way. take a picture of what the pulley looks like before you remove the spring.

- the smaller bearing was completely gone (ground away) so we were unsure where the new one went, but we figured it out

- you will need new screws. buy some 10 x1/2 and a few nuts. we used hex washer heads.

- when you are re-assembling the drum it will appear to hang too low and angle slightly. this will fix itself when you put the front panel back on.

any new or replacement appliance installation must be completed with a venting material which is marked and complies with the new standard ULC S636 piping rather than unmarked PVC, CPVC or ABS piping

esponsible for any damage to the water heater if caused by you or unauthorized third parties or by fire, flood, accident or other insurable risks

(i) the purchaser is notified in the agreement of purchase and sale that the water heater is rented and is subject to these terms and conditions, and (ii) you advise us in advance of the purchaser's name and the intended date of sale

may purchase your rental water heater at any time for the applicable age-reduced price

there may or may not be charges associated with this termination of your rental

you agree to arrange for the safe return of the water heater to us

qualified third party disconnect your rental water heater and then return it

to have Direct Energy disconnect, remove or retrieve the rental water heater, in most cases there will be a $75.00 charge for these services.

You agree to supply and maintain water conditioning
equipment as we may recommend to resolve water quality
problems, such as smelly water, iron discolouration,
calcium buildup, etc. Otherwise, charges may apply for
future repairs or replacement of the water heater or the
availability of a rental water heater may be restricted.

(i) the purchaser is notified in the agreement of
purchase and sale that the water heater is rented, (ii) you
have notified us in advance of the purchaser’s name and
the intended date of sale, (iii) the purchaser agrees in
writing or by conduct to rent the water heater on our then
current terms and conditions and (iv) you have paid us all
other amounts owing under this agreement.

You agree to be responsible for maintaining effective
operation of any plumbing and pumping systems supplying
water to the water heater during installation or servicing
of the water heater.

account set-up
fee (currently $30)

standard removal charges as follows: (i) our account
closure charge (currently $200, if the water heater is
one year old or less, or $40, if the water heater is over
one year old, or $0, if the water heater is over 10 years
old)

water heater pick-up
charge (currently $65 for a gas water heater