Chris W's List: Dog Behavior

• In all cases of interdog aggression, there will be physical signs-- although sometimes subtle-- of the aggression, before the dog acts.  This may include:

   

  - Stiff and rigid body language.
  - Pulling the mouth closed tightly.
  - The dog may lock his gaze with the other dog.
  - Curling of the upper lip.
  - Lowering the head (in a stalking/hunting-like position)
  - Dominant body language or seeking to be physically in a higher position than the other dog.
  - Hackles up
  - Lips curled tightly against the teeth, and showing of the teeth.

• Don't ever fall into the trap of thinking that dog to dog aggression is normal and nothing can be done about it. Each time you let your dog get away with it you are actually rewarding and therefore reinforcing the unwanted behavior.
• Adding punishment or pain such as leash corrections or electronic shock collars to an already fired up and stressed dog is a very risky action to take. I wouldn't recommend it. There's far more effective and humane training methods we can implement instead - read on.
• Head collars and a muzzle are an effective tool to prevent altercations but they don't get to the root of the problem. They are not the solution.
• Once again obedience training is the key. At the first sign of any anxious or aggressive behavior from your dog you can immediately call on an obedience command such as a down-stay to divert his/her attention. You are asking your dog to perform an alternate behavior which takes his focus and attention away from the other dog. It also changes your dogs body language to a passive, non threatening posture.
• Always reward your dog for polite, calm greetings with unfamiliar dogs. Demonstrate to your dog that you are happy with him/her.

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• It's the aggressor who is inappropriate. This is a true case where the victim has always been blamed. An article by Patricia McConnell in a recent APDT newsletter also notes this: that the dog that people usually reward so that they can "keep" their status is usually aggressive out-of-context and without provocation, and that reinforcement of these behaviors only makes the situation worse, not better.
• The victim needs to have a sense of control and safety. This can be provided in part by putting a bell on the aggressor's collar so that the victim always knows where the aggressor is (Bear Bells: Silverfoot; Box 2090 Squamish, BC V0N 3G0, Canada; silverft@mountain-inter.net). Predictability lessens aggression.
• Why were the females involved - are females more common in this form of interdog aggression? It's an interesting, important, and presently incompletely answered question. Females are over-represented in this form of aggression in my patient population, regardless of hormonal status, which suggest that these data should be further examined.

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• If your dog is possessive of toys or treats, or territorial in certain locations, prevent access and you'll prevent the problem. In an emergency, bribe him with something better than what he has. For example, if he steals your shoe, trade him the shoe for a piece of chicken.
• Punishment won't help and, in fact, will often make the problem worse. If the aggression is motivated by fear, punishment will make your dog more fearful, and therefore more aggressive. Attempting to punish or dominate a dominantly aggressive dog may actually lead him to escalate his behavior to retain his dominant position. This is likely to result in a bite or a severe attack. Punishing territorial, possessive, or protective aggression is likely to elicit additional defensive aggression.

• The dogs that bite people are, in many cases, socially isolated because their owners are socially isolated, and they are vicious because they have owners who want a vicious dog.