Ultimate Exposure Computer

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Photography Technique
- each number represents twice as much light as the numbers increase
- In order to be useful, this Exposure Value number must be converted into an f/stop and shutter speed combination that will provide the proper exposure for the film speed you have chosen.
- For example, if you are using a 200 mm lens, your shutter speed must exceed 1/200 second (I.E. 1/250 or faster). If not, you should use a tripod. If your subject is moving, double this shutter speed. If you are moving (such as in a boat or plane) triple the speed. If you are doing macro work (.25 magnification or greater), always use a tripod.
- most daylit subjects fall within a narrow range from EV 11 to EV 15
- There is a rule called the "Sunny f/16 Rule". It says:
 
 On a bright, sunny day, the correct exposure for any subject is f/16 at the shutter speed nearest to the reciprocal of the film speed.
- For example, an overcast day would halve the light falling on the subject (EV 14). If the light reaching the film is cut in half, ONE other variable needs to be changed to increase (double) the amount of light. In this case the shutter speed could be reduced to 1/60 second OR the aperture could be increased to f/11 OR the film speed could be increased to ISO 200. Any ONE of these corrections would provide the correct amount of light. Make the correction that best suits your photographic purpose (decreased depth of field -- the distance in front and behind of the subject that is acceptably in focus -- or enhanced apparent subject motion).
- You should always bracket in difficult situations. Anyone who says differently is misleading you.
- Sunny f/16 Anchor Point: On a bright day (EV 15) the correct exposure for any subject is f/16 at a shutter speed nearest to the reciprocal of the film speed (I.E. ISO 100 film = 1/125)
- Doubling Rule: Within any exposure factor (Exposure Value, film speed, aperture, shutter speed) each step is double (or half of) the preceding step.
- If your shutter speed is slower than the reciprocal of the focal length of your lens (I.E.< 1/200 sec. with a 200 mm lens), use a tripod.
- If your subject is moving, double this shutter speed.
- If you are moving (such as in a boat or plane) triple the speed.
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11 Jan 14

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- <h align="CENTER"><a rel="nofollow" name="Light Intensity Chart">Exposure Value</a><a rel="nofollow" name="Light Intensity Chart"> Chart</a> </h><table border="1" bordercolorlight="#000000" bordercolordark="#000000" width="576" cellspacing="1"> <tbody><tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> EV</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> TYPE OF LIGHTING SITUATION</td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> -6</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Night, away from city lights, subject under starlight only. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> -5</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Night, away from city lights, subject under crescent moon. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> -4</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Night, away from city lights, subject under half moon. Meteors (during showers, with time exposure). </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> -3</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Night, away from city lights, subject under full moon. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> -2</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Night, away from city lights, snowscape under full moon. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> -1</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Subjects lit by dim ambient artificial light. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> 0</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Subjects lit by dim ambient artificial light. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> 1</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Distant view of lighted skyline. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> 2</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Lightning (with time exposure). Total eclipse of moon. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> 3</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Fireworks (with time exposure). </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> 4</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Candle lit close-ups. Christmas lights, floodlit buildings, fountains, and monuments. Subjects under bright street lamps. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> 5</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Night home interiors, average light. School or church auditoriums. Subjects lit by campfires or bonfires. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> 6</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Brightly lit home interiors at night. Fairs, amusement parks. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> 7</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Bottom of rainforest canopy. Brightly lighted nighttime streets. Indoor sports. Stage shows, circuses. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> 8</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Las Vegas or Times Square at night. Store windows. Campfires, bonfires, burning buildings. Ice shows, football, baseball etc. at night. Interiors with bright florescent lights. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> 9</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Landscapes, city skylines 10 minutes after sunset. Neon lights, spotlighted subjects. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> 10</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Landscapes and skylines immediately after sunset. Crescent moon (long lens). </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> 11</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Sunsets. Subjects in deep shade. </td> </tr> <tr><td valign="MIDDLE" width="17%"> 12</td> <td valign="MIDDLE" width="83%"> Half moon (long lens). Subject in open shade or heavy overcast.</td></tr></tbody></table>
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Sunny f/16 Rule
On a bright, sunny day, the correct exposure for any subject is f/16 at the shutter speed nearest to the reciprocal of the film speed.

We know that a bright, sunny day equals EV 15.

For example, if you are using ASA/ISO 100 film, the correct exposure would be 1/100 second (or rather the closest available shutter speed - 1/125 second) at f/16.

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+ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16_rule
+ http://guidetofilmphotography.com/sunny-16-exposure.html
+ http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/how-to/shooting/the-digital-zone-system.html
+ http://www.digital-photography-school.com/exposure-triangle-not-jus

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Quite a lot of things to learn about exposure with a bunch of handy tips & references.

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THE ULTIMATE EXPOSURE COMPUTER

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Imagine an exposure computer so advanced that it uses your eyes as a sensor. The processing unit is as powerful as your brain. The computer is accurate over a light range from reflected starlight through the light produced in a hydrogen fusion reaction. T

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magine an exposure computer so advanced that it uses your eyes as a sensor. The processing unit is as powerful as your brain. The computer is accurate over a light range from reflected starlight through the light produced in a hydrogen fusion reaction. Th

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This leaves only two things to adjust to achieve the correct exposure while making a photograph; shutter speed and aperture (f-stops). Shutter speed and aperture are very important to the creative photographic process.

Shutter Speed:

Shutter speed indic

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Page Comments

Brian Schultze on 2006-10-27

an in-depth artilce about using your brain as an exposure meter
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